1984 Kawasaki GPz 1100
Miles: 23,000
Clean Title
Price: $8,500 OBO
Auction ends: March 29th, 2024
While it was built until well into the 1980s, Kawasaki’s GPz 1100 was a bike that really represented the technology of the 1970s: when it was introduced in 1981, it had air-cooling, twin shocks, and a steel cradle frame. The second generation of the bike seen here and first sold in 1983 did see an update to a monoshock rear suspension and more modern bodywork but, within just a few years, the GPz’s other components would be superseded by the liquid-cooling and aluminum beam frames that characterize bikes of the modern era. The GPz 1100’s 1089cc inline four was an evolution of the unit that powered the Z1R, but fitted with fuel-injection and various internal modifications, including the obvious displacement bump, in order to remain top dog in the class with an output of a claimed 108hp. Unfortunately, it was ultimately Kawasaki’s own liquid-cooled and higher-performing GPz 900 that signaled the death knell for the GPz 1100, and the short-lived model was discontinued after 1985.
1984 Kawasaki GPZ1100. An original survivor with low miles in excellent all round condition. It has just been serviced and tuned and runs and drives excellent. Everything works as it should and it will make the next owner super happy either to ride around to shows and meets or as a collectors piece. Buy with confidence.
The seller’s description doesn’t include many details about the bike, but it looks very clean and complete in the photos and is claimed to have been recently serviced. The paint looks a bit dull and there are some blemishes on the fork lowers, but overall the bike appears as described: a survivor. The $8,500 price seems a little ambitious, but miles are pretty low for a bike of this age and if you’ve got a longing for this era of motorcycle that straddles the looks and technology of the vintage and modern worlds, this might be a good buy.
-tad
This has been on ebay for at least a year.
Maybe the seller is hoping the bike will appreciate up to the asking price.
I really would like to have this bike. I owned one 30 years ago. Many good memories. I unfortunately destroyed mine as a lad learning to adjust valves. Which ended with stripping the threads that hold the camshaft caps to the cylinder head. I also crashed it, repainted it, dropped it off its sidestand, and all the other bad things a budding motorcyclist must get under their belt. It all ended in indignity. But It was an investment in the rider and mechanically adept person I am today.
i have been roadracing the past 3 years, track riding for 20. My old GPZ had some performance characteristics I’d really like to revisit with my current skill set. My big question is, how much of the handling demons were rider originated? Which were inherent in 40 year old technology?
If the asking price were $2500 I’d likely be willing to get my answer. At $8.5k, I am not. Anyone have one to rent for a week?
@Michael – Do you think a vintage sportbike rental business would do well? How much would you pay to rent this bike for a day? Asking for a friend.
@jess – it makes you wonder. We are finding that though the passion and love for these bikes is strong across the board, not everyone has great selling skills. Would a post about how to value a bike be of interest? How to sell a vintage bike? How to make sure your vintage bike finds the best next owner?
@LL
Thought I would offer my opinion on selling vintage bikes as I take a break from restoring an old H1.
In my humble, but experienced, opinion, your best chances of selling a classic or vintage bike, are, in no particular order, except for the first one, lol……
Retain or restore it to as close to stock condition as possible. I cannot overstate this one, it is really important. I have passed up many a bike because of horrible mods.
Research your bike. Don’t just look for the highest price you can find on the internet and assume yours is worth that much too. We’ve all seen the dreamers who think their $2500 bike is worth $6000 just because another one sold for that much. Be realistic.
Detail it. If I see a dirty bike I’m going to assume it was not well cared for. If you list the bike with pictures from your garage, make sure that garage is clean and organized. This also speaks volumes about it’s owner and his attention to detail.
Documentation on the history of the bike. Sometimes there is very little, but it can ease the buyers concerns if they can see it was serviced and what was done.
Plenty of detailed pictures. As a buyer I wanna see every inch of that bike. (see BaT). I prefer my bikes having run on ethanol free gas. Mention that in the ad if that’s what you use. It demonstrates knowledge of the hobby. Video of cold start and riding. I also would like to see the exhaust at startup. Low mileage is great and attracts a lot of attention but as a buyer, beware, if the bike’s been sitting unused for years, there could be many issues and a major restoration in store for the new owner.
And lastly, I have seen many bikes I have interest in but I will not buy a bike off Craigslist or Cycle Trader that is out of state and I know many collectors feel the same. If you’re trying to get top dollar, serious buyers need trusted national exposure like BaT or ebay for a more secure transaction. Buyers like to view ebay feedback and on BaT there are many comments ready to pick apart or praise your listing. This site is best for high end or very well cared for bikes. Don’t be afraid of listing on an auction site. Chances are you will get top dollar there if you’re willing to take the time to do it right, plus you have the option of listing with a reserve.
This is my idea of what a collector is looking for.
I have never sold a bike on line. Fortunately I have sold all my bikes locally.
I have bought afew bikes on line. I agree w/ what Dan has said and have a few more things.
I really like to talk with the seller.
I always replace all of the control cables. Todays cables are so much better than old cables. And all of the filters and clean all of the filter screens.
My experience w/ two stroke street/off road bikes is that anything 20 years or older will at the minimum need the crank shaft seals replaced regardless what the current owner says. Inspect the oil pump and tank.
As for used performance motorcycles, don’t kid yourself, its a performance bike and one of the owners has run the bike hard.
Low mileage bikes are a conundrum to me, a bike that has set dorment can have problems depending how the owner prepared the bike for storage and what climate it is stored in.
If it has been stored correctly, at least plan on replacing the fork seals and wipers, the clutch and ignition engine case seals, all fuel and oil lines, and fuel taps. And the clutch should be taken apart and inspected. The engine compression can be low from setting but usually increases as the engine is run through some engine heat cycles.
I like working on old British bikes as they are simple and there is a plentiful parts supply. If the running engine oil pressure is low clean the oil trap and check the moving parts clearances. The youtube ‘Mighty Garage” channel is a good guide of how to prepare an old British bike.
If you are interested in old bikes, you better be mechanically inclined or they can be an expensive nightmare,.
I also like BaT. I think the start run thing is good but over-rated. I can get a bike that is on it’s last legs to to sound and run good for the start and run up and down the street video.
Also I always inspect/replace/grease the wheel bearings, mechanical break shoes and drums, and inspect/repair/adjust spokes/rims.. Usually rebuild disc break calipers and resurface the rotors (if possible). Inspect/replace chains and sprokets (replace both, not just one). This will make the motorcycle ride much better. These are high wear components on motorcycles.
Adjust the engine valve clearances and the valve timing chain on OHC engines.
Renting old bikes: I have rented trackbikes to go do trackdays several times. Mainly because I wanted to go ride a specific track that is more than a days drive. It adds up but considering it is like a single months bike payment its a no brainer.
for a street ride. I’d pay up to $300 a day. Preferably less. But up to. With an old bike my biggest concern if it isn’t fragile. Because if something breaks it may not be replaceable.
my experience on borrowed 80s bikes points out one thing: being acclimated to bike of the last 30 years differs noticeably from those older. As a general rule I’d say when radial tires became the norm thats a noticeable cutoff. And then perimeter frames around 1985 were another.
in the end I enjoyed the experience from the rides, while at the same time affirming it is “better to rent than own”.
many of the bikes on this site would peak my interest. Would love to try an RZ350 or a vf1000r. Or a yamaha gts1000. Most riders I know go through bikes way faster than cars. And not because they are daily riders. Most want a new experience. Well, me anyway.
@LL, just my .02. Let me know when I can come rent a gts1000 for a few days.
BTW, there is a GPZ750 turbo on craigslist St Luis right now. Another bike I’d like to rent.
i love youtube channels and I would say anyone doing RSBFS rental should have a channel featuring the offerings. That would go a long way to demonstrating the soundness of the rental machines.
@Michael J
I have been watching that Turbo Kawi since it was listed and wishing it were closer to me. It looks to be in great shape and if so, that’s a very fair price and would go for far more on BaT. I think it’s a great candidate for this site. But I have to wonder why this has not sold yet. Lack of exposure?